Cheap ???? KDT911 Black Bushing K ????

7 reviews for Cheap ???? KDT911 Black Bushing K ????

1. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Jimmy J Chen – March 29, 2014

   If you are like me for some reason was taking the differential housing out and thought it would be a good idea to replace the mount bushing, then yes, this is a good thing to do and a nice product to do it with. BUT, don’t think it will simply be popping out the old ones and in with the new ones. It took me a good two whole days to get all three mounts out and many trips to the hardware store. Whiteline does nothing to assist you in how to replace them, and please don’t use a saws all like they say in the instructions, it’s just a disaster waiting to happen. I used threaded rods and washers and short pipes to drag the bushings out as I cranked the nut on the threaded rod. PB Blaster also seemed to help. Also, take note of how the original vertical mounts were sandwiched with the loose pieces, you’d need to reinstall them in the right order, this is what Whiteline also does not tell you or even that you need to reuse anything. I do feel a more solid shift so that’s great, but 3 stars for poor instructions and tips on replacement.

2. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Cody Abbott – June 25, 2015

   Different color than shown, the bushings i received were black. Install was a breeze. Removal of the stock bushing from the subframe was a PITA, I ended up taking a drill and making a hole that I could get a sawsall blade through, then I cut the rubber out of the inside of the bushing. After that, you can get a straight shot to cut two parallel cuts almost all the way through the metal outer piece of the bushing. After that I just took a cold chisel and peeled the little section between the two cuts up like a banana peel. Lots and lots of hammering, I hope you have big arms; I do not.For the other two, you can use a simmilar method with a sawsall and a cold chisel, or use a shop press. If you go the press route, you will need a big press, The little bench top harbor freight one is only big enough to get at one of the bushings on the differential. I used the saw and hammer method for the one I couldn’t get at.

3. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   Darcee O. – October 21, 2016

   04 Infiniti G35X. This bushing set worked very well to replace a leaky/worn rear bushing. The vehicle’s performance and feel has not changed since I replaced it (which I appreciate). Maybe it feels ever so slightly more solid when engaging the drive gear. With someone helping me, my car on a hydraulic lift and all the tools available, this project took about 8 hours. The two hardest parts were removing the rusty bolts/nuts on the exhaust and getting the large bushing out of the rear portion of the subframe. After seeing different methods on youtube, I recommend the following: Use a drill to extract the rubber center of the bushing. Then use and air hammer with a chisel bit that is shaped like a “T”. Put the flat side of the T against the wall of the hole and cut through the outer sleeve of the bushing. Pry the sleeve out of the hole after cutting/lifting in a few places. Good luck.

4. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   wonton_prince – December 11, 2017

   If you have a blown OEM bushing with the silicone bladders leaking all over your subframe like I did, you should definitely change your differential bushing. From torn, it is as the old adage goes, a “night and day” difference. It will feel nicer, launch better, etc. While I did have increased driveline noise (whine), I also changed my diff fluid (which by OEM FSM info is not ever necessary) so that might have contributed to it.The Whiteline bushing has tiny holes in it for flex, and knurling/crosshatching on the inside so that it will hold the grease instead of pushing it all out when you install the inner race. This is something you don’t get from Energy Suspension (for this piece or control arm bushings).One thing I noticed is that the Whiteline bushing does not run the entire length of the subframe. There is a new(er) urethane diff bushing product from Z1 Motorsports ($79 USD) where it does run the length of the subframe, but it does not have features that the Whiteline does.DIY INSTALL NOTES:- To remove the main diff bushing in the subframe, if you don’t drop the subframe, it is difficult to get the old one out. Z1 Motorsports has a diff bushing removal tool to make it easy for you, but for the price ($98 USD) you may as well buy an electric reciprocating saw for less (especially for you Americans with access to Harbor Freight). This is required to remove the outer race from the subframe. This will invariably take longer, and is prone to mistakes; I borrowed my girlfriend’s dad’s Porter-Cable Tigerclaw reciprocating saw, and it was very heavy so I struggled to keep the blade parallel for the whole time, which resulted in me scoring the inside a bit lol- You will need a transmission jack (or a transmission jack adapter or some friends) in order to remove the differential off of the car. It weighs something like 100 lbs?- Personally I did not have to remove my muffler (Power House Amuse) but you may need to, and it would probably give you more space even if you didn’t have to. You will have to disconnect the midpipe though, so make sure you have a replacement gasket, or liquid gasket will do in a pinch- To remove the diff ear bushings, it requires flipping it over, and hammering the crap out of it (with something to sit in the crevice; a 34mm socket fit well for me). As a result of this upside down business, some diff fluid will leak out. This is the perfect opportunity to change your diff fluid while you are at it even though the factory service manual says you never have to (you will need 3 US pints / 1.5 US quarts / 1.4 L). To refill it, I used a fish/aquarium pump because I am a genius lol- While you have the diff off, if you can afford it and are changing the diff fluid anyway, you can also take the opportunity to change the aluminum diff cover for a finned one (Nismo, Z1, etc.) if it pleases you. It increases the capacity though so make sure you have enough fluid. If you are draining it, then you should replace the diff drain and fill plugs with ones with neodymium magnets (M18 x 1.5 pitch). You will need to do some washer stacking. The magnet is much stronger than the really fat OEM one; swiping the insides after draining will collect much more metal shavingsIf you’re loaded, you can change the LSD while you’re at it too- The new one just pushes right in. There is a specific orientationI attached some photos so you can laugh at my pain 🙂 good luck guys

5. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   Mathew – May 16, 2018

   The product itself is fantastic, much more responsive acceleration, cornerning and eliminated wheel hop.I installed this on my 2011 G37S sedan and it is a little short due to it being for a 350z/g35 but works fine.Installation is difficult and Infiniti replaces the entire subframe when these bushings deteriorate.Being a professional mechanic I did the work myself and with my knowledge, tools, and access to a lift it took me roughly 2 hours to install due to how difficult old bushing/collar is to remove even with air hammer and chisel’s.

6. 

   Rated 4 out of 5

   Berris – February 3, 2022

   Price

7. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   M. Davis – August 25, 2022

   Great product, better than the competition as it came with the interior bushing components that the competition makes you use your own. It was also great to install it from the rear rather than have to pull the differential.